20 Things I learned in 2020

A Year in the Algarve

  1. Roundabouts have Rules — who knew? You have to put a turn signal on when you’re exiting…no one taught me that in driver’s ed. stateside
  2. Obrigada is not a type of fish. And if you’re a boy, you should say Obrigad-O.
  3. Double Rainbows DO exist. And for that matter, so do WHITE rainbows.
  4. Fire can “jump” many kilometers at once — it’s actually called “spotting” and anyone who knows the Algarve understands that summer winds are up to 60km/h so fires travel like rockets. It’s scary.
  5. Outdoor furniture weighing less than 30 kilos will flip over, blow off your terrace, or end up at the bottom of your garden at some point. It’s just a question of when.
  6. There are more beaches than people in the Algarve. OK, not really. But it seems like it.
  7. Stargazing is a lot more fun when the air quality is pure. I’ve never seen brighter stars than in the Algarve.
  8. Eating food that arrives at your table within 20km of travel is INCREDIBLE. You can taste the difference.
  9. Spear fishing is a great survival skill.
  10. Guinea pigs whistle when they like you.
  11. Bank Mortgages are impossible to get on illegal structures. Don’t even try. Get a good lawyer to check any potential property you want to purchase first — especially if you’re paying cash (think resale).
  12. Agriculture is an important school subject.
  13. Wine doesn’t have to be red or white. It can be green too!
  14. High heels and cobblestones are not a match made in heaven.
  15. Six year olds cannot actually learn anything on Zoom.
  16. It may not be the best idea to move countries right before a global pandemic hits.
  17. There’s nothing online that could even come close to a live in-the-flesh performance. Sorry. It’s reality.
  18. Learning how to drive a manual car before you move to Portugal is a great idea.
  19. In a global pandemic, the Algarve might just be the safest place on the planet.
  20. Positivity can be practiced. Just like yoga or pilates. Seriously. If you tend to see the glass half empty, try a Gratitude Journal. It saved my life in just five minutes/day.

*If you feel like writing your own ’20 things I learned in 2020′ –I’d love to read yours too! Please post in the comments 🙂

The Third Wedding

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In an unofficial ceremony of our own making on the beach in Tel Aviv, we tied the first knot. Then, at a stateside reception at Lake Rabun, we played the video of tying the knot. But the real fun began when we officially tied the knot…

Dominated by a mountainous topography full of hiking trails and waterfall, Rabun County in Northeast Georgia has a human population of about 15,000 and a deer population of about 30,000. For those who know the difference between a Southern accent and a country accent, the vast majority of Rabun Country residents definitely speak with the latter. Even for me, a Southern girl from the suburbs just North of Atlanta and proficient in English, ebonics, and country, the speech can sometimes be hard to understand. Naturally, for my Israeli-American husband, the twangy speech patterns are nearly impossible to master.

Thus, it was a good thing that I made the phone call to the Rabun County Courthouse to check on what paperwork we would need to get officially married.

The conversation went as follows:

Rabun County Secretary: Well, you gotta bring in a berth certifict an a valid driver’s liicense an sixty five dollers.

Me: Can I bring a passport instead of a birth certificate?

RCS: A whut?

Me: A passport.

RCS: I don’t rightly know. Has it got a piture ID?

Me: Yes, it’s an official government document. You have to have a birth certificate in order to get one.

RCS: Awright then. Lemme find out for ya

At this, the secretary put down the phone and shouted at one of her colleagues: I got a lady on the phone who wants to bring in a paaaasssport to git married. Is that awright?

After a bit of shuffling, the colleague answered that it would be just fine.

RCS: yeh, that’ll be awright. Make sure you both come in together.

Me: do you have people who come in to get married alone? I ask incredulously.

RCS: aw, you’d be suprised at what we see in here. We get all kinds of folks tryin’ to get married to somebody without that somebody with ‘em. They usually say its causa work or somethin’.

Me: we’ll be there together.

RCS: awright. see you then.

Luckily, when we arrived at the courthouse, the secretary who received us to take down our information did know what a passport was. Nevertheless, our family histories were a bit out of the ordinary for the small town in which everyone knows everyone and the vast majority are blood relatives.

“My mother is from the Yakima Valley and my father is from Brunswick, Georgia,” I told her, offering spelling help. “Tel Aviv, Israel and Johannesburg, South Africa,” hubby told her, offering even more spelling help.

“Do you prefer the judge’s office or standin’ beneath the big magnolia in the yard outside?” asked the secretary.

It was a muggy August day, but we like the outdoors so we opted for the beneath-the-magnolia ceremony.

The slim, blonde judge told us a few obligatory things about the seriousness of the step we were about to take.

We nodded in understanding. By now, we should be considered experts on the subject.

Just as we stepped together and joined hands for the exchange of vows and rings, a man in a suit ran past us like a whirling Tasmanian devil. “Don’t do it! Don’t do it!” he shouted from the steps of the gray marble county courthouse building.

The judge turned to us with a smile and said, “Don’t pay him any mind. That’s our busiest divorce lawyer.”

For us the old expression certainly fits. The third time was definitely a charm.

Turkey Hunting in the Holy Land

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“Kak mojna pamotch vam?”* asks the big, red-haired Russian butcher with a chesire-cat grin as I pluck the wet cotton shirt I’m wearing away from my skin a few times in order to circulate some air around my face. I have no idea what he just said to me, but I understand that it’s Russian and not Hebrew. I smile back at him and then turn my attention to finding a whole turkey in the meat counter before me. On the blue sticky note in my hand, I’ve written down how to say ‘whole turkey’ in Hebrew: Hodi Shalem. I forgot to ask how to say ‘do you have’. I remember it’s something backwards, like ‘have you’ instead of ‘do you have’, but I’m not feeling brave enough to attempt it. Instead, I quietly mutter, ‘hodi shalem, bevakasha’ **. I look behind me at the line but no one seems to have noticed my dreadful accent.
I still haven’t gotten used to the fact that I’m sweating in November. But after all, this is Israel. Southern Israel no less.
“kak?” ***asks the burly butcher, leaning closer to hear me repeat what I’ve just said. When I look perplexed and don’t immediately answer, he narrows his eyes and cups a hand around his ear. It’s torture. Why do they always think I’m Russian?
‘Ani lo medaberet russet,’**** I tell him, hoping this will clarify things. ‘anglit?’ I venture, hoping that he knows a few words of English. He shakes his head and turns around to ask one of his co-workers something in rapid Russian. The co-worker shakes his head too. I take a deep breath.
‘Hodi shalem, bevakasha’, I tell him again, a little louder this time.
I notice an elderly woman in line staring at me, and I can feel my cheeks burning. I must be as red as a radish.
‘Shalem?’ questions the Russian butcher in a suspicious tone.
‘ken’***** I tell him, repeating what must be an unusual request in this country. ‘hodi shalem.’
He stands back with a puzzled look on his face, says something in Russian to his co-worker and then tucks his thumbs around the chest straps of a dirty white apron.
The face-off continues for a few seconds, but I am not willing to give up. Just because Israel doesn’t celebrate Thanksgiving doesn’t mean I won’t. I’ve never baked a whole turkey in my life, but I am certain I can do it. All I need is the turkey.
Seeing my desperation, the butcher points to a whole chicken in the meat counter to try and appease me. I shake my head and pull my arms out in front of me, trying to make it clear that I want something bigger.
I’ve forgotten the word for big in Hebrew, so I just keep saying ‘big, I want bigger bird. Turkey.’ The English doesn’t help, so I try making turkey sounds and flapping my arms a bit. I end up sounding like a sick chicken and I don’t want to know what I look like.
The butcher probably still has no idea what I want, but my attempts at a turkey call make him laugh. He has a deep-chested, open-mouthed laugh that shakes his big stomach. I feel like slinking out of the store and never coming back, but my determination wins and I stand my ground. ‘Hodi Shalem,” I say again, trying to keep a stern look on my face despite his laughter.
He holds up one finger and then disappears behind a set of thick, hanging plastic strips into a chilly-looking back room. The elderly woman who has been following our gestures from the line with great interest comes over to speak to me. “You know, you say ‘hodi shalem’. You mean ‘turkey’ but turkey is ‘hodoo,’ not ‘hodi’. You tell now you want whole Indian. This very funny.”

I am not amused, but try to wrap my brain around the ‘oo’ instead of ‘i’ at the end of the word in order to make sure I ask for a turkey and not an Indian in the future.

‘yesh li hodi shalem,’ says the butcher, returning to the counter with another chuckle, probably because I’ve been flapping around asking for a whole Indian and he is now reproducing my mistake to amuse the whole store. ‘aval at lo yechola lakarat et ze levad.’
The kind elderly woman comes to the rescue again. “He say he have whole turkey, but you not able to take,” she translates.
“Why not?” I ask her.
‘Llama lo?’***** she asks him.
‘Ze 20 kilo!’ he tells her.
“It weighs twenty kilos,” she tells me. I try the calculation in my head. Math has never been my forte, but I know it’s about two pounds to the kilo, which means this turkey weighs more than a small child. Not exactly what I had in mind.
“Doesn’t he have anything smaller?” I ask my new-found translator.
The butcher understands my question and cuts her off before she can finish.
‘ein,’****** he says emphatically, dragging a finger across his neck impatiently. I find this gesture both appropriate to a Russian butcher’s mime lingo and menacing for the point he’s trying to make. After all, no one is going to die just because he doesn’t have a normal-sized turkey.
I sigh in defeat and wipe another bead of sweat from my forehead.
“Kri off,” says the butcher, picking up a chicken that looks pathetically small.
‘ok,’ I tell him. Give me a f**g chicken then, I want to say but don’t dare.
He wraps up the skinny bird, puts it on the scale and then announces loud enough for the whole store to hear ‘ste kilos, ze tov le tanur.’
‘What did he say?’ I ask the volunteer translator. The whole store is now following our conversation with utmost interest.

‘Two kilo. That good for oven,” she tells me, patting my shoulder with a grandmotherly gesture of reassurance that things are going to be fine, what’s the big difference after all, between chicken and turkey. “Same same” she tells me.

As I leave the store with my 2-kilo whole chicken, a blast of hot air hits me in the face. I take my sunglasses off my hair and put them back on my eyes. Thanksgiving will not be the same. No matter what anyone says, chicken is not ‘same same’ as turkey on Thanksgiving. Next year I’ll have to try asking for a turkey instead of an Indian. At least I can carry it. That’s something to be thankful for.

*How may I help you? (Russian)
** Whole turkey, please (Hebrew)
*** What? (Russian)
**** I don’t speak Russian (Hebrew)
***** yes (Hebrew)
***** why not (Hebrew)
******there isn’t/aren’t any (Hebrew)

Smirting in Tel Aviv

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“What is smirting?” asks a good looking young hippie to my left, slowly tucking a stray, blonde dred lock behind his ear and then taking a long drag from his Camel Light. “I just read about it–apparently it’s a combination of smoking and flirting that started in countries where smoking has been banned in bars,” a tall, willowy girl answers.

“Oh,” says the guy. “So do you want to smirt?”

“Sure,” she answers, laughing at the funny term and his adorable grin.

It’s November 2007, six years after the first law in Israel prohibiting smoking in public places was passed but never enforced. Last week, a new law went into effect regarding smoking in public places. And this time, people are actually obeying the orders. In a country where the accepted m.o. is the following–do whatever you want until someone tells you not to–it’s actually surprising to see people doing what they are told and going outside of bars, restaurants, shopping malls, cinemas, concert venues and clubs to smoke. As soon as the law was passed in New York and Americans took to curbside inhaling, we knew it was only a matter of time until Europe followed suit. But Israel? That one really surprised us. The enforcement of the new law happened as quickly as shiny new gyms suddenly popped up on every corner, nine new volleyball nets and night-time spotlights (funded by the municipality) went up on Gordon beach, and health food stores miraculously appeared every few blocks. But unlike many popular things that seem to spread like wildfire here, not very many people in Tel Aviv seem thrilled by the new law.

Outside one of Tel Aviv’s oldest concert venues, The Barbie, a gaggle of smokers is debating the new law and the rampant rumors that accompany it.

“It’s fascist,” says one guy to his girlfriend after she points out that, on a positive note, the new rules may make it easier to quit smoking. Another guy criticizes the expense of the ticket. “It’s a $125 fine if an inspector catches you smoking in an illegal place now, and I heard it’s over $1,000 if a place lets people smoke inside. That’s a ridiculous amount.”

But the fact remains that until a law was passed (and enforced) hitting people where it really hurts– in their wallets– no one paid a lick of attention to the ban on smoking in public places. And the smoke can get so thick in Tel Aviv bars you could cut it with a knife. So even if you smoke, going out in the city means coming home inevitably smelling like an ashtray that has never, ever been emptied. After a recent, three-month stint in the lovely city of San Francisco where even smoking outside can incur the wrath of fellow passer bys, we were not looking forward to the smoke-filled nights in Israel.

Nevertheless, it was so hard to believe that people would actually follow the rules here that we had to peek inside The Barbie and see it with our own eyes to believe it. “Not an ashtray in sight,” says my husband after checking out the tables and bar. “Amazing.” The only smoke in the room emanated from an odorless fog machine somewhere behind the stage.

As Prem Joshua and his band of world-music musicians took the stage, we took appreciate whiffs of the clean air and settled into our cushions. “I wonder how long it will last,” said my husband. “Probably about as long as the fines,” I answered. And although we aren’t holding our breath with high expectations, it’s nice to know that if we want to, it’s actually possible to breathe normally now–even out on the town at night.

Missing Mother Tongue

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Living abroad as a writer has consequences I didn’t anticipate. Aside from not understanding innuendos in Hebrew, which I usually don’t, I miss hearing my native language spoken–especially by regular people on the street. It probably has something to do with the pleasure I take in eavesdropping, which I realized I no longer do. I’ve stopped listening to conversations random people are having in Tel Aviv because when they speak below a certain volume, I begin to lose too many words and the communication becomes incomprehensible. It’s actually an interesting phenomenon. Get a bilingual friend who speaks your native language and a second language that you understand but learned later in life to help you experiment with it sometime. When they whisper in your native language, you can usually fill in the blanks, but in a second language, even if you speak it and understand it pretty well, it has to be louder to understand. At least that’s my completely unscientific two cents on the subject.

But I only began to feel this loss after coming home to the United States for the longest period of time in recent years, almost two months now. Being home has made me realize that I miss reading all of the ingredients in the food I buy (and either knowing what they are or knowing that they sound too bad to eat). It turns out that being able to tell the difference between low-fat cottage cheese and sour cream is an acquired skill. I also miss being able to associate an accent or a specific vocabulary with a place, an age or even a racial group. For instance, it’s useful to know that if a stranger on the street says ‘yo, sista’, I probably shouldn’t reply, ‘hello, how may I assist you?’, which, I also realized recently, might be exactly how I sound sometimes in Israel. Wrong register, according to the linguistic rules.

The other thing that suffers a miserable fate when you live abroad is slang (understanding it and using it properly). When I arrived in California this August for my annual trip to the Burning Man festival, I kept hearing ‘agro’. I could sort of piece together what it meant based on the context of the sentence, but it surprised me that it was just one of many words I had never heard. The first time someone said, ‘that music is way too agro for me,’ I immediately thought to myself: what does that music have to do with agriculture? You get the point.

The other new ones for me were ‘brainiac’ and ‘cathouse.’ It turns out that braniac is used all the time. I’ve just never heard it used to describe a highly intelligent person in a positive way. Even this spell checker doesn’t recognize it and puts a disturbing red line beneath it (I hate those), but you’ll find it in the dictionary. Cathouse could be more related to my gender than my clumsy slang. I’m currently taking polls to find out if men and women know that cathouse means ‘brothel’ and not a cool little hut you can buy for your pet cat to hang out in that will cost you a small fortune and take up an entire corner of the living room.

Three weeks ago I started to write down snippets of conversations, new words, slang and idiomatic expressions. I feel like a starving mutt that has suddenly been offered an overabundance of food and water, which of course prompts ‘squirreling away for later’ behavior. I want to conserve every precious moment of the English I hear, with all of its different accents and slang, its double-entendres and senseless words. Somehow, putting it on paper gives it more permanence. And it will have to last until I make it home again. The Taiwanese guy at Quickly in San Fran saying, in his thick Taiwanese accent, ‘yoo not want to be the one holding stick when the lollel coastel go back down, yoo know?’ following a conversation about the risks of buying real estate in China. I’ll have to store in my memory a delicious moment when a thin, middle-aged white woman with long, white braids suddenly turned to her friend in an incense store and said in a low voice, ‘Bob, why you gotta be a hater?’ I have no idea what Bob did to deserve that, but what surprised me was that it came out of her mouth at all. Less surprising was the young hippie who, after a rather long jazz concert at the Fillmore, started screaming to the exiting crowd ‘Didn’t Skofield crush it? He crushed it dude!’ I especially loved hearing a kindergarten teacher describe an unruly child as ‘an emotional junkie.’

It’s mother tongue mania for me, and eavesdropping has regained its place of prominence on my list of favorite things to do. I’m scooping words out of every nook and cranny, peeling them off the sidewalks, filching them from the mouths of strangers. After all, I’ll have to hoard enough treasure to last until the refilling of the chest. And who knows when that will be.

My first blog

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Well, allright, it’s actually my second. The randmwedding blog being the honorary first. It’s so liberating to type in a diary-type setting while in the back of your mind, you know the whole world could read what you’ve written if you allowed them to.

Right.

Only permission is lacking. And permission is just one click away.

But trespassing can be a real trip, and writing something you know will be read is totally different from what you’d write in a personal, hand-written journal.

So crossing the genre lines has been tough for me, but here I am. Typing for myself and one day maybe the world. It reminds me of the guy at university in my creative writing major who used to tell people, “keep my emails for the day when I’m a famous writer and everyone wants records of my private life and copies of my love emails.” Pretentious? Yes. But also exactly what lurks in the back of every writer’s mind–especially one who dreams of publishing a best-selling novel one day. So far, that hasn’t happened for him. But I admit, I too thought about the record this leaves of a life–famous writer or not.

The blog will focus on Life in Israel and will never run out of topics. Nor of notable paradoxes. Every time I walk out of the house–even if I’m in my pajamas just walking the dog–things surprise me. It’s one never-ending surprise to be a foreigner–especially in Israel.

This morning, for instance, as I was standing in line at the bank, an elderly woman with a check nearly got into a fist fight with the bank’s manager. It was a sight to behold. She on her short heels digging in as her long, white braid flew around and he screaming at her within an inch of her face. A total invastion of the box. Which happens a lot here.

I sometimes only get bits and pieces of the conversation because the Hebrew evades me. At those time, I have to make up the ‘real’ story myself. This is an endless source of entertainment.

I think she was trying to cash a check in someone else’s name, and the fact that she was pulling a stolen grocery store chariot full of old clothes and dusty books probably didn’t help her case. Anyway, it seems the bank manager refused her.

But in my head, the words I lost grew larger and evolved into random explanations. I imagined her saying, “my children kicked me out of the house this morning for going too many days without a shower and I need to cash this check to eat breakfast. It’s all I could steal before being thrown out, and it belongs to one of my nasty offspring, so can’t you make an exception on the name rule and cash it for me?”

I’m sure she said nothing of the sort, but it made me snicker as I waited in line. And yes, the neighbors in line did ask me what’s so funny.

I didn’t answer them.

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