Into the Rainforest

Meredith Price

Costa Rica offers visitors deserted beaches, spectacular wildlife and, on a clear night, the fireworks of an active volcano. Amidst a plethora of flora and fauna, Howler monkeys and toucans make their homes in the wilds of Costa Rica. Sun, sand and cheap eats make for a great vacation on the 'rich coast.'

As the bustling capital of San Jose fades quietly into the distance, a mountainous, emerald landscape emerges. One snaking road winds slowly through the lush terrain. Hillside villages dot the countryside as meandering goats and cows graze quietly. The door of every pastel home is propped wide open. Porches lined with rocking chairs afford the locals a great view of both passing tourists and a misty rainforest. The start of our trip lands us in the central mountainous terrain, home to one of the most active volcanoes in the world. Situated above a rainforest, Volcán Arenal's daily eruptions send shooting lava flows and flaming boulders flying down its steep slopes. On a clear night, the fiery lava trailing from the mouth of the volcano to its base far below rivals any fireworks display. In the small town of La Fortuna, La Pradera Hotel has reasonably-priced, clean bungalows outside the bustling village center. On a clear day, you can see the volcano behind the waterfall of the hotel's swimming pool, and a hearty "typical" breakfast of eggs, black beans and rice gets you ready for an active day. The Costa Rican coffee has such a rich flavor that it's easy to overdose on caffeine, but if you want to take some home with you, buy it in the local supermarket for half the price that it's sold for in the hotels and airport stores. In the lobby of La Pradera, Internet service is available and brochures offer everything from safari tours, river rafting, spelunking, horseback riding and trips to orchid and butterfly farms. A pleasant receptionist speaks English and can advise you about local activities, including out of the way waterfalls and the best hikes in the area.

At the base of the volcano is Laguna Arenal, Costa Rica's largest lake. A drive around the lake provides spectacular views of the steaming volcano, and all types of water-related activities are available along the shore. Everyone from windsurfers to ornithologists to spa lovers can find their pleasure in this area. For $4, you can enter the National Park, which has beautiful hiking trails etched along old lava pathways. Caving tours, horseback riding excursions and sunset cruises around the lake can also be booked in La Fortuna. The belching and gurgling of the volcano can be heard from anywhere in the area, paralleled only by the frequent wailing of the aptly-named howler monkeys who share their habitat with the noisy peak. In the rain, steam rises from the molten rocks in thin, sizzling wisps and the treetops begin to drip, soaking the forest floor. The month of September is low season in Costa Rica because of the precipitation, but that also means fewer people and better prices on hotels, car rentals and activities. "September is our least crowded month, and it is one of the best times of the year to view the nightly lava flows because the evenings are clear," explains Oliver Schüschner, the operations manager for Tabacón hot springs resort and spa.

Located at the foot of the volcano, Tabacón is luxurious and scenic. The magmatic water of the natural falls and pools flows directly from the veins of the volcano. Originally intended to bottle drinking water, Tabacón opened its doors as a spa in 1993. Twelve pools, with temperatures varying from 70 F to 106 F, are interspersed among exotic gardens, private bungalows and Iskandria treatment centers that offer volcanic mud wraps and hot spring dances. "We have a massage called watsu-su founded on the principle that water represents the energy of the universe. You fall asleep in the warm spring and awaken gently to the sound of the waterfall," explains Schüschner. After a long hike around the volcano, a soak in the therapeutic waters is the perfect way to relax the body and mind.

A FEW hours' drive from La Fortuna, through the port town of Limon, is the village of Cahuita. Literally meaning "the place where the Sangrillos grow," it is located at the southern tip of the Caribbean coastline, a few miles from the Panama border. Long stretches of white sandy beaches, as far as the eye can see, are surrounded by lush, green forest filled with exotic wildlife and diverse flora and fauna. "Six percent of the world's biodiversity is in Costa Rica," explains Pierre Léon, the owner of El Encanto Bed and Breakfast in Cahuita. Although Costa Rica is smaller geographically than the state of West Virginia, more species of mammals are found here than in Canada and the United States combined. "We came here to escape the crazy world," says Léon, who moved with his wife to Costa Rica from Canada a few years ago.

And escape they did, to a heavenly garden where every morning the rhythm of the ocean and the singing of the birds awaken you to a new dawn. A visit to nearby Cahuita National Park affords close-up encounters with white-faced capuchins, poison-arrow frogs, leaf-cutter ants, Jesus Christ lizards and keel-billed toucans, not to mention who knows what other creatures that observe you as you tread through their habitat. Not only does the landscape of the Caribbean coast differ from other parts of the country, but the culture is unlike the rest of Costa Rica. The Afro-Caribbean heritage in Cahuita is defined by its reggae music, English accent and tangy cuisine. Rich coconut sauces and spicy curries top chicken and fish entrees served with the Costa Rican national dish, rice and beans.

Further up the coast, a protected National Park is home to the most important breeding ground for the green sea turtle in all of the Caribbean. Unfortunately, most people only visit the park with outrageously expensive guided tours, as it is difficult to access alone. But if your Spanish is good enough to ask "dónde está el barco para Tortuguero?" then you can make the trip by yourself and stay in the village right next to Tortuguero National Park. Going without a guided tour rescues you from the herd mentality of group tourism and costs about one-tenth of the price. Instead of $300 a night in the latest "eco-jungle lodge," you can stay at a nice B&B in town for $30 a night, including a big breakfast of - you guessed it - eggs, rice and beans. In September, the green sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs, and many nests are hatching. If you can manage a 4 a.m. walk on the beach, you are likely to spot some green sea turtles nesting. From the ocean, their giant tracks in the sand lead up to the holes where they bury their eggs. Sixty days later, the babies hatch and wait for the sand to cool before making their dangerous trek to the water. If you are very lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the tiny turtles heading for the sea too.

From Tortuguero, fishing boats return to the small farming villages outside of Guapiles every morning. The drive back to the capital through mountainous terrain only takes a few hours, and it is possible to buy inexpensive chartered flights to Golfito, a large port town on the southern pacific coast. If you have more time, you can drive or take a bus, but the trip is much longer. One of the highlights of Costa Rica is Corcovado National Park, a little explored area on the edge of the Pacific Ocean. Difficult to access, few tourists ever make it here, and for those interested in off the beaten path travel, this is truly paradise. In the rainy season, you have to take a boat from Golfito to the town of Jimenez and then either hitchhike or take a taxi to the town of Sirena, where a luxurious, secluded tent camp offers private bungalows and family-style dining. It is the only lodging outside the park, and if you don't want the expense of flying into Corcovado, get ready to hike 19 km. along the sandy shore. Be careful about hiking around high tide and crossing high water because crocodiles do live in the rivers. Once you arrive in the national park, dormitory-style lodging is available and if the rangers are in a good mood, you might be able to eat a meal. You should bring your own supplies and food because the rustic, isolated camp does not offer much more than bunk beds and public showers, but the hiking trails are spectacular and the area is teeming with rare wildlife.

On a canoeing trip in the park, sharks, crocodiles, monkeys, and birds surrounded us. Everywhere we looked, animals eyed us suspiciously from the water below or the trees above. As we paddled slowly along, two tapirs came running out of nowhere. Overgrown pigs with snouts on land, these creatures have the same elegance and grace as dolphins as soon as they enter the water. Their fat bodies glided smoothly across the river to the chorus of howler monkeys and cawing quetzals. Exploring this diverse, unspoiled country that teems with wildlife was the highlight of our trip, and our only regret was that we could not wander through the rainforest for longer. A short flight from Golfito to San Jose provided one last view of the lush, green countryside that covers most of Costa Rica. As the sprawling city of San Jose emerged, the memory of blushing skies and secretive forests faded into the distance. The faint impression of gushing volcanoes and laboring sea turtles, steamy spas and tropical foliage, smooth beaches and sprawling mountains, flaming horizons and hushed forests stayed with us as we boarded the plane, and as our oval window went from green to white, the plans for our next visit were already being made.