Letter from Israel

Venturing off Israel's Beaten Path

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By Meredith Price

 

Visitors to Israel can fish in Tel Aviv (center) and hike in the Negev Desert (left) and the Golan Heights (above).

The words "travel" and "Israel" might sound like polar opposites for most Americans, but the adventurous few who have visited no longer wonder why it's called the "land of milk and honey."

The majority of the world's population has no idea that this little spot on the Middle East map is so geographically varied and architecturally rich - not to mention teeming with luxurious spas, charming bed-and-breakfasts, top-notch museums and gourmet restaurants.

Israel, all 8,000 square miles of it, is one of the world's smallest countries. Driving from the Gulf of Eilat near Egypt to the Lebanese border takes about the same amount of time as getting from Atlanta to Savannah. And this makes the tourism options even more incredible.

Exploring Natural Wonders

From oily "floats" in the therapeutic waters of the Dead Sea (the lowest point on earth) and spectacular hikes through waterfalls and lush foliage along the Golan Heights far above the Sea of Galilee, ecotourism in Israel is alive and well.

For the ornithologists, there are sanctuaries in northern Israel where migrating flocks of hundreds of bird species on their way to Africa pass overhead every year. Over 740,000 acres of natural parks and reserves offer the usual camping, hiking, riding and cycling options, and you get used to the "Danger! Land Mines!" signs that forbid hikers from entering fenced-off areas. For a list of parks and reserves, visit www.parks.org.il.

Animals and Art

If demanding activities and sports are not your cup of tea, cultural tourism abounds. The best zoo in Israel, opened in 1993 by the Tisch family, is in Jerusalem. The spacious "biblical" zoo has 250-dunams of gardens, lakes and natural habitats. It features both animals mentioned in the Bible and endangered species from around the world, including a red panda, elephants, a lemur and kangaroo petting zoo, lions, a tropical bird aviary and the Noah's Ark Visitor Center.

The top museums are in Jerusalem (the Bible Lands Museum and Yad VaShem's Holocaust Memorial Museum) and Tel Aviv (Eretz Israel Museum and the Tel Aviv Museum of Art). The artsy towns of Zichon Ya'akov and Ein Hod are full of lovely shops and art galleries with handmade Israeli objects.

Romantic Spas

Israel has some of the best spas in the world. Ein Gedi, Mitzpe HaYamim and the Carmel Forest spa resort are among the most luxurious, and there is also the beautiful Hamat Gader. For those over 16, it's worth the extra fee to enter the exclusive Spa Village at the far end of the complex. Away from the crowds and children, you can soak in ancient Roman baths filled with thermo-mineral waters of the natural hot springs surrounded by tiki torches and lush greenery. Options include day rates, but you can spend the night in one of the upscale cabins. Fruit baskets, wine and a private Jacuzzi, as well as a wealth of treatments and massages, await you at this romantic getaway.

Beaches, Bands and Bourekas

The lively Tel Aviv metropole overlooking the azure waters of the Mediterranean and long stretches of white sandy beaches has plenty of options for sun worshippers and night owls alike. Tel Aviv and Herzliya have every kind of water sport under the sun.

On Gordon Beach in Tel Aviv, six brand-new, permanent beach volleyball nets host serious athletes year-round. Be aware that they may not let you play unless your skill level matches theirs, and you should bring your own ball. Not to sound like Forrest Gump, but you can body surf, wind surf, kite surf and just about any other kind of surf imaginable along the central coast. Chartering a sailboat is another popular option.

For theatergoers, innovative dance groups, fringe theater directors and a vast array of bands hit stages all over the city on a nightly basis. After the shows, around 11 p.m., Tel Aviv's bars and clubs begin to wind up and usually run until sunrise.

If you're looking for gourmet food in the middle of the night, the selection is far better than any other city I've visited - the M&R Brasserie on Ivn Gvirol Street serves up excellent French fare 24 hours a day, and a slew of uorescently lighted "bourekas" joints will top your cheese pastry with tomato sauce and hard-boiled eggs any time. The best bourekas in the city are at the intersection of Bougrashov Street and Ben Yehuda.

Hot Digs

Volunteers are welcome to help dig, sift and sort archaeological sites, some as many as 8,000 years old. The best digs are sponsored by the Hebrew University of Jerusalem or Tel Aviv University and include nightly lectures. The digs are available in July and August, the hottest two months of the year in Israel, so be prepared to rise before the sun and work like a dog in sweltering heat.

Back to Basics

There are a number of advantages to touring the only democracy in the Middle East - beyond the fact that the food won't make you sick and you can drive on modern roads.

The first is the price (everything is significantly cheaper than the United States) and the second is the crowds, which are thin except for July and August. Car rentals are available at the airport, and it's safe to drive if you can follow a map (signs are in English, and you couldn't get past the roadblocks to the occupied territories if you wanted to).

The best times to visit are the spring months, March to May, and the fall months of September and October. At the very least, an off-the-beaten-path trip to Israel makes you look brave and is a great conversation piece.

Meredith Price grew up in Marietta and bought a ticket to Tel Aviv on Sept. 10, 2001. She writes a column on Israeli innovations and cultural features for The Jerusalem Post. You can reach her at meredithmprice@yahoo.com.

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